Over the Kitchen Counter: Angie's Place for Cooking and Crafts

Amy Alan Serger Lesson

You know how much I love Amy Alan (her blog Really Hand Made is awesome!) and her Beginner Serging class on Craftsy has simply opened up the world of serging to me.  There is SO MUCH to learn in her class and it's chock full of great information.  There are great 'getting to know your serger' lessons covering all the basic stitches (you make a sample book along the way so you remember your settings) and then a few cute projects to translate what you've learned into actual sewing.

I highly recommend the class for its depth and detail but I also love this video I found on YouTube of Amy's appearance on It's Sew Easy.  It's like a quick, condensed version of her class and is a nice overview of a serger and the stitches it makes.  What a great way to get a sense of Amy's teaching style (which I love!) and get a valuable lesson in using your serger...and it's free!!!  Amy certainly does make it look Sew Easy, doesn't she??? 

Woolly Nylon & a Napkin Tutorial

Woolly nylon is a decorative thread that can be used for serging rolled hems.  It is one of the threads that Amy Alan discusses in her Beginner Serging Craftsy class and I knew I wanted to get some to complete the thread sample pages as well as some projects.  It turns out that woolly nylon is not as readily available as I thought!  Nancy's Notions used to carry it but not any longer.  I finally found some at Threadart.com and I ordered a couple of spools in most of the basic colours (they were sold out of black).

Here's how the website describes the thread:

"Woolly nylon threads have a vibrant shine and color.  Serges beautifully with smooth and strong edges and seams.  Perfect in upper and lower loopers for rolled hems and edges. Stretchy thread for seams of swimwear, lingerie, knits, children's clothing and active wear."

When I was searching for a source I came across this bonus video from Craftsy featuring Amy.  She demonstrates how to make a napkin with a rolled hem using woolly nylon!  It's an awesome tutorial because she shows you how to set up your serger to do a rolled hem and then also shares how to make the napkins.  There are several hints on turning corners nicely and finishing the seam ends.  It's a nice little freebie from Craftsy!

I've written before how Amy's class is one of my all-time favourites, (as well as being one of the best value classes!) and she is really helping me get the hang of using a serger - something that is completely new and foreign to me!  She is my favourite Craftsy instructor so I was really happy to find another quick lesson from her!  Check it out below!

I'm going to add my woolly nylon spools to my serger thread container and I hope I can create all kinds of projects with beautifully filled rolled hems!

 

Serger Thread & Storage

I am very excited that I can now thread my serger all by myself!  Not only does that mean I don't have to panic if a thread breaks but also that I can change threads whenever I want a different colour or a different kind of thread!

I wrote about buying a cone each of 4 different coloured threads to match each spool/thread path.  This is a great way to learn what each thread does in the stitch.  However, I hadn't thought about the fact that most times when you use a serger you want all four threads to match!  At the very least you might want the needle threads to match or the looper threads to match.

For this reason, people often buy serger threads in sets of 4.  That can get kind of expensive so serger owners might choose to sew with neutral threads that co-ordinate with many fabrics, like a grey or cream thread.  Doing so avoids the need to stock 4 spools of multiple colours and also avoids having to re-thread the machine!  So that's what I decided to do initially and at Nancy's Notions they have special pricing for sets of 4 of the same colour spools.  You can even get them on sale and each cone is under $3 when you buy the 4-pack!  I picked a set of cream, beige, and black threads.

And remember that extra tote container I picked up in October, 'just in case'?  Sure enough, it is perfect for my serger thread cones and I'm so glad I tucked it away!!

 

Threading a Serger

I did a lot of research before deciding to get a serger.  One of the things that was always discussed was the nightmare of threading (or re-threading).  That kind of intimidated me, but also excited me at the challenge!  I always like to conquer problems and I really wanted to have a go at threading a serger.

Once I actually got my Juki I put off cutting the threads that my machine specialist had threaded.  I knew that he had the tensions set and the machine was sewing well.  I was a little scared, given my inexperience, to mess with it.  Finally, after serging a couple of test strips, I was ready to try re-threading with 4 different colours.

I had prepared: I printed off the threading instructions from the manual.  There is a page for each area: upper looper, lower looper, and each needle.  I further armed myself by taking photos of each area of the thread path.  I printed 4 large colour photos on each page.  Just in case something got messed up I could refer to the photos and see where each thread is supposed to go.  Obviously, if you know me at all, I laminated all the reference sheets!

Finally, before cutting those white threads and throwing my hat over the fence, I took a video on my phone tracing the thread path of each spool.  I also had my i-pad with Amy Alan's Beginner Serging Craftsy class paused at the threading section!  (I don't know why I was so worried because worst case scenario I could just take the machine back to the dealer and have them re-thread it!)  I initially tried snipping each thread and re-threading each guide as I pulled the old thread through (ie. pull the old thread out of the tension disc, put the new thread in the tension disc, and so on).  That didn't really work very well because the snipped thread pretty much fell out of each section before I could see it, and the needle threads were in the way and had to be cut anyway.

I'm happy to report that the threading actually went very well!  It is not that difficult at all and the instructions in the manual were very clear.  I'm not sure now what all the fuss was about and why people get so worked up about it.  Do they not read the instructions and just try to figure it out on their own?  I'm quite relieved now that it's done and I'm no longer intimidated at all!  I made a thread chain and did some practice pieces with my new 4 colours of thread.  Everything looks pretty good and after messing with the tension settings I'm getting a feel for which thread does what.

NOW I think I'm ready to make samples for my serger book and then eventually move on to some real projects.  My stack of to-do quilts is calling my name but I would like to at least get the book done with the serger before I move on to some quilting.  I'm not big on having two things on the go at once so I'll see how much time I have to dedicate to the sample book.

 

Serger Trim Catcher

My son gave me this serger trim catcher for Christmas.  Since my Juki 654DE doesn't have an added waste collector I wanted something to catch the trimmings so they don't just fall all over the floor!

The cloth bag is attached to a soft pad which not only holds the waste bag open in the correct position but also absorbs vibration from the machine.  It makes a nice platform for the serger and has inch and metric scale markings on the front edge.

I set up my machine on the pad and although it seems precariously perched over the edge of my counter, it does sit firmly in place.  It works like a charm to catch the falling edges of fabric as they are trimmed away and I like the way it defines the serger workspace.

I have been brave and turned on the machine and stitched a couple samples.  The first one is pretty good because the technician had it set well.  Then I had a little hiccough and it seemed like something came unthreaded.  I tried to fix it and sewed again only to have a huge mess!  The tensions were crazy willy nilly and I thought, "uh-oh!  I've really messed it all up now!"  But with a little thought I realized I hadn't put the presser foot down! lol!  It's easy to do, especially when it's the first time you've sewn on something and are focused on other elements, like the threading.  Happily, the next sample was much better and it seems like things are good.  I'm now ready to cut the apron strings and re-thread from the beginning using my 4 different colours of thread.  After that's done, I will start the 'real' samples for my serger stitch book for Amy Alan's Beginner Serging Craftsy class.

Ta-Da! My Juki Serger!

Here she is!  I finally got to 'open' my new/old serger, the Juki 654DE.  As I purchased her sight unseen I was a little surprised that she appeared older than I expected.  The cloth bed area is quite yellow (didn't use her SPF in the sunlight, I expect!) and she's missing her 2/3 thread converter.  But she's a beauty and she's mine!

Apparently this model is my sewing machine specialist's favourite one.  I practically had to offer him visitation rights when I picked it up!  He's happy it went to a good home and he knows I am fussy and will take GOOD care of it!

He says she purrs like a kitten and is strong and reliable.  I totally trust his judgement and even though the old gal is probably pushing 20 and has a few miles of stitches under her hood, I think we'll get on fine.  As I said, I'm so thankful for Amy Alan's Craftsy beginner serging class.  She has taken (almost!) all the intimidation out of a serger and I can't wait to get started.

Ok, family...back to school, back to work, and let me get in my sewing room and play!!!!

Beginner Serging & Serger Thread

Now that I am a proud new owner of an old serger I'm learning all about serger thread.  Regular polyester serger thread is usually on a cone.  Cones hold much more thread and since a serger mows through tons of it, it makes economical sense to buy it in bulk.  The thread is also thinner 2-strand thread.

I bought these Maxi-Lock cones to get me started with the serger sample book I'm making as part of the Beginner Serging Craftsy class.  I signed up for this class ages and ages ago, way before I even thought about adding a serger to my sewing room.  I had watched it in passing but never really dove too deeply into it because I didn't have a machine to refer to or work with.

Now I am much more intensively active with this class.  I love that about Craftsy classes...you own them forever so you can stockpile them and watch the lessons when you are ready.  I have to say, and I have taken many Craftsy classes, that this one is extremely valuable!  It is totally meaty and FULL of content.  It's almost like 2 classes in one: learning about the serger and going through all the stitches and making a sample book...and then, making several class projects to experience working with the machine on actual items!  There is a trouble-shooting section, a 'how to clean your machine' segment, and a bonus lesson on extra add-on feet!

I can confidently say that Amy Alan is pretty much on the top of my list for Craftsy instructors.  She is absolutely amazing - great voice, wonderful style, very active and responsive to questions, and she has such a calm and relaxed way of teaching that she gives you the confidence to dive right in.  She is also cute as a button! lol!

I bought the different colours of thread to help me, as a beginner sergist(?), identify the 4 different thread paths (upper & lower loopers, left & right needles) as the red, green, gold, and blue correspond to each area.  Threading a serger to begin with can be complicated and the different threads can help with that too.  It also makes adjusting the tension easier because you can better see which thread is where.

I can't wait to get started with the sample stitches and complete my serger book.  Amy provides the template pages for the serger book with spaces to record the various settings for each stitch and a place to attach a sample swatch.  This is right up my alley!

Once I'm comfortable with the machine I'll move on to the actual projects: a boxed bag, an apron, and a scarf.  They all look so fun and I'm excited to give them a try as well as use decorative threads to make the standard stitches serve as embellishing accents.  I'll share the results when I get them!

If you have a serger that's gathering dust or hasn't even been taken out of the box yet (and there ARE several students who have admitted that!!!) I would HIGHLY recommend Amy's class.  She really is very thorough and explains everything so it makes sense.  I really knew NOTHING about sergers and now have the confidence to not only get a machine but actually USE it!!! :)  Yipppeeeee!!!

Needle Tool

Oh my gosh!  This is the most amazing little sewing notion.  The Needle Tool is used for sewing machine needle insertion and hand & machine needle threading.  I got it to use with my serger but it will be great for my other machines too!

The double-ended plastic tool has a grip end which holds a machine needle for easier insertion or removal - no accidentally dropping the needle into the depths below the needle plate!  The other end has a 'y' slot to hold the thread with a threader pin which automatically pushes the thread through the eye of the needle.  The hook can be used to grab the loop and pull it out to the back.  So simple but truly helpful and ingenious!

Both uses will be so helpful with my serger!  You can watch this very clear video to see how it works.